One device of VXDIAG Porsche Piwis III and one laptop with 9 boot systems to support all of those dealer tools software together, please refer to the following images:
Used to read pin codes for 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee using Lonsdor K518ISE Key Programmer.
But now i cannot read the pin.
this is the version able to read pin from Grand Cherokee
but now it cannot…
forced to update sw
the machine device info (id, sn)
i check alk immo0
nothing as smart 453
immo4 immo5 all
go to the trial apply in the main interface
Trial apply it’s only 90 days
so, now, everything is clear.
In Key Programmer Londor K518, menus are divided into two parts:
free menus and subscribed menus.
Free menus are free for lifetime.
Subscribed menus can be used for free for 90 days.
You need to pay for them after the trial period. After the trial period, subscribed menus will not work properly if you don’t pay. And the menus will disappear after updating the device.
A. 365 days is a period and the price is USD600 per period. One year period starts from the day of the trial period finished.
B. Purchase menus with a dealer. You can use the menus normally and permanently after payment.
C. Menus which you purchase includes subscribed menus that have been released and that will have been released in one year period.
D. Subscribed menus beyond one year period requires extra payment.
after 90 days’ trial period, click check for updates in one key update, you can use subscribed menus for an extra 90-day period.
SEC-E9 Key Cutting Machine is used for cutting car/motorcycle keys, punch keys,tubular keys and household keys. It covers cylinder and laser keys with adapters for other key styles. SEC-E9 now is for sale in obd2tool.com. Here are the basic review and user manual provided.
Sec-e9 portable metal desktop air cooling fully automatic key cutting support cut 99% car keys, including standard keys and high security keys, such as BMW, VW, Audi, Mercedes, Honda, Opel,etc. It also supports to cut house keys, including dimple keys, tubular keys, single standard keys and motorcycle keys.
Qualified Locksmith Tool Full Automatic Key Cutting Machine SEC-E9 Features:
Built-in database, supports key missing teeth inquiry;
Light weight, small size, easy to work out;
Equipped with 2 spindle belts, decoder and cutter;
Interpretation and cutting can be completed at one time;
Supports plain milling key, face milling key, Allen key(F021), Stiletto key and Cylinders key;
Supports network remote upgrade, no need to return to factory;
Repairs the wear keys to recover the original precision.
1. Automatic key cutting machine;
2. Mainly applied to automobile key cutting and duplicating, especially for most foreign car key blanks(including ford tibbe), and household keys, standard key(edge or doubled-sided non laser keys),
3.Computerized Electronic Automobile Key Cutting Machine, different with traditional key cutting machine,easy to operate and copy.
4.Best tool for locksmiths.
5.Same quality as imported machine.
Function Briefly Description
1. Can copy your key without your original key;
1. with LISHI locksmith tool ( a tool read the fear teeth)
2. Imput the slip no. of key to the machine
3. By VIN no.
4. Move clamp, scan the barcode
2. Can Cutting all flip Keys;
1. Pressing the vehicle icon in the initial page to open the manufacturer list and choose the brand, series of vehicle
2. Choose the manufacturer year
3. Fix the keyblade over the clamp
4. Read the data of key, the key no. would be show on the screen
5. Pressing the “cutting”icon
1.Competitive price: compared with foreign country like Italy,European our price is competitive.
2.Weight: weights 22-24kg, considerable portable.
3.IR scan:duplicate a new key by read the geat teeth .
1.Cutter and spindle are consumables, make sure to replace it with the new parts after a certain period of use.
2.Please read the manual before operating this equipment without fail.
SEC-E9 CNC Key Cutting Machine User Manual Instruction
SEC-E9 key cutting machine price: US$2,200.00
Resolution: XY: 0.005mm Z: 0.0015mm
Spindle Revolution: 11000+rpm
HOW TO USE SEC-E9 CNC Key Cutting Machine ?
DETAILS OF DISPLAY
SEC E9 tilting screen
SEC-E9 Key Cutter Support Keys Type List:
Car brand list:
SEC-E9 support household keys list:
SEC-E9 key cutter support punch key list:
SEC-E9 support Motorcycle key list:
SEC-E9 support tubular key list:
SEC-E9 key cutting machine dimple cutter and decoder:
Q: Can the SEC-E9 machine cut household keys?
A: definitely yes!
Q: Condor XC-mini cannot support the moto key; SEC-E9 support that?
A: Yes, SEC-E9 can cut motorbike keys without issues.
Q: What’s the different between Condor key cutting machine and SEC-E9?
A: SEC-E9 can cut motorcycle keys and household keys that Condor cannot support.
To support all kinds of keys, the SEC-E9 automatic key cutter comes with the corresponding clamps for different key types.
So, SEC-E9 automatic key cutting machine is a good choice for locksmith. It can work perfect with different kinds of automobile key, motorbike key and household key. No need to buy other small key cutting machines for house keys. Can a new key without original key. It is the main difference from the traditional manual key cutting machine. Much more powerful than Condor xc-mini key cutter machine!
Calibration Transfers/Downloads failing with Cummins INLINE 7 and J1939 for older modules (CM570, Celect, Celect Plus, CM550,etc)
Enable J1939 Inter-Message Delay on Cummins INLINE 7
* Exit INSITE, and any other application that uses the datalink Adapter.
* Exit the INLINE 7 Explorer by right clicking the tray icon and choosing exit.
* Launch CumminsValidationTool from the start menu. Note when searching the start menu: There are no spaces in the name.
* Select the INLINE 7 Driver and Device, and then click Settings.
* Under Misc, Change “J1939 Inter-Message Delay (msec)” to 10.
* Click Save, and then close the CumminsValidationTool. Reopen INSITE and calibration should succeed.
What types of protocols are supported for INLINE 7 and INLINE Mini?
Are there known issues with other datalink / Auto diagnostic tool?
BMW R1200GS year 2015 Motorcycle
Purpose: Add a spare key. Have original key in hand
ECU: Bosch ME17.2 BMSX
Try IMMO Off method
Remove the ECU. It is a Bosch BMSX type ECU.
Follow Ktag master wiring to read Bosch ME17.2 BMSX IROM TC1797 BMW (P452)
Read data quickly
Immo off and write back to ECU
Nothing changes 2 days later.
Immo off failed.
Read immo data to to write key
Finnaly I was told by some motorcycle experts, the TMPro2 (Transponder Maker Pro) is a motor beast.
Device is very clean and simple. A main unit, a few connectors and an eeprom adapter.
Visit the official website http://tmpro2.com, download device software and got it well installed.
Directly connect device with laptop via USB port, don’t need extra power supply.
Software is multi-language available (Bulgarian, English, French, Portuguese, Polish, Hungarian, Spanish, Serbian, Italian, Czech, Chinese, Greek, Turkish and Romanian). Here I tested the Chinese version.
There are 211 software modules available currently, including 38 Motorbike modules.
It is said that it is THE ONLY tool in the world that can make key for keyless BMW motorbikes.
Device does come with some FREE functions: read chip information, read and write EEPROMS 93cXX, 24cXX, 25cXXX, 95cXXX, S29190, X5328, Motorola 912 / 9S12, Microchip PIC18F252, read Motorola HC805P18 (need adapter), unlock Megamos Crypto ID48 chip and change mileage on BMW CAS FEM/BDC.
It can still used as a chip programmer if don’t buy any software module.
There are several BMW motorbike modules depends on years.
For R1200GS, you need to purchase module 191.
For BMSX or BMS2K or BMSMP ECU – to see where keys are stored you must check what is on ignition barrel.
If there is IMMOBOX UNIT – keys are stored in this unit but not in ECU.
Purcshe the license from the obd2tool.com again. They got it activated very quickly.
Then follow the wiring diagram to connect
Read the immo data and load data to TMPro2 transponder Key Programmer to write key (same procedure to add key and make all keys lost).
Result: successfully add a workingn new key using tmpro.
I bought the MB SD C4+Dell D630 Laptop pre-installed bundle, when I test it have the problem SD Connect C4 cannot power on when connected with Tourismo bus, I contacted there customer service at obd2toolcom, and here is the solution provided by their engineer.
I will explain my problem in detail:
” I have tried 2 different mb sd connect c4 on Tourismo buses and sd connect does not power on.In the meantime those MB SD Connect C4 works normally to any other MB Truck and car.also on Tourismo have check Mb Star C3 and works normally.”
You should check:
bus with OBD
pin 4 + 5
both must be connected and ground
In SDConnect “-” is 5 pin only. There is 4 contact not used in 16pin OBD connector.
“i’m getting an communication error when connecting xentry to a tourismo.”
A Communication error has occurred when access FPS system
– turn OFF/ON BUS ground switch (our remove battery – cable). FPS1 wake up and Mercedes Star Diagnostic recognized FPS1/VIN code.
– enter the DAS ATEGO truck come and place manually and then it will work perfect
” Another problem is : “Currently the speed limit is set to 100 km/h. I’m trying to set it to higher value (with MB SD C4 DAS using modified EOL files). On the menu it tells me that I can, because there are higher values (105 km/h. 112 km/h, etc). But when I try to set the speed limit to higher than 100 km/h it doesn’t allow me to do it (can’t save the changes). When I try to set it below 100 km/h everything goes fine.”
I done the Access special settings , and it working perfect now!
Confirmed! Genuine KESS V2 is able to read and write the Control Unit of VAG DSG DQ250 and DSG DQ250 MQB transmissions. but a new 144300K267 dsg cable and the genuine programmer are required!
new 144300K267 dsg cable to flash mqb dsg:
uses the same cable as the old DSG DQ250
Difference between old and new dq250 is that you add a 12v 5 amp switch to the positive main power cable, when it prompts you to cycle ignition, leave the main DSG switch on, and cycle the switch that you just installed when prompted.
Schematic of the cable I have used for DQ250.
Also a photo of the cable set I have made with changeable adapters for DQ200, 250 and 500. The clips for battery connection, box with ignition switch and the connector to KESS box is re used for all adapters.
With the drivers included in ECM Titanium, you’ll be able to modify the operating parameters of the gearbox Temic DSG MQB in order to increase performances.
FEATURES AVAILABLE WITH ECM TITANIUM FOR DQ250 MQB:
* Upshifting maps: they manage the shift to the upper gear in all the driving modes available on the vehicle (ECO, Normal, Sport, Winter). They indicate in RPM when the gear shift occurs.
* Downshifting maps: they manage the shift to the lower gear in all the driving modes available on the vehicle (ECO, Normal, Sport, Winter). They indicate in RPM when the gear shift occurs.
* Launch control:the launch control is an electronical system to avoid the slipping of the drive wheels when accelerating rapidly from a standing start. Thanks to the maps of launch control it’s possible to increase the RPM maximum limiter.
* Maximum torque limiters:in addition to the limiters of the ECU, it’s possible to modify the transmission torque limiters to increase the performance of the vehicle.
* RPM limiters:you’ll be able to modify the RPM limiters of the transmission too, to achieve better performance.
* Timing maps:they’re expressed in ms (milliseconds) and enable the shifting timing modification.
* Maximum oil pressure:it’s possible to increase the shifting speed, by increasing the oil pressure of the transmission.
——————————————–YOU HAVE TO KNOW ——————————————
It’s VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT: you should have the Auto ECU Programmer Kess V2, not china or eu clone. with the clone you have no luck with VAG DSG DQ250 and DSG DQ250 MQB.
Also, KTMflash is a good investment for DQ250 MQB
Cheap China clone KTMfash also works good for DQ250 MQB!
DQ250 is listed in the KTMflash vag car/ecu list. look here:
V-A-G: DQ200 (0AM)
V-A-G: DQ200MQB/G2 (0CW)
V-A-G: DQ250C (02E) K-Line
V-A-G: DQ250E/F (02E)
V-A-G: DQ250MQB (0D9)
V-A-G: VL300/V30 (01J/0AN) K-Line
V-A-G: VL300/V30 (01J/0AN)
V-A-G: VL381 (0AW)
V-A-G: DQ500 (0BH/0BT)
V-A-G: DL501/G2 (0B5)
V-A-G: DQ200/MQB Boot (MICRO)
V-A-G: DQ200/MQB Boot (EEPROM)
V-A-G: DQ200G2 Boot (MICRO)
V-A-G: DQ200G2 Boot (EEPROM)
V-A-G: DQ250E/F/MQB Boot (MICRO)
V-A-G: DQ250E/F/MQB Boot (EEPROM)
V-A-G: VL300/V30 BSL (FLASH)
V-A-G: VL300/V30 BSL (EEPROM)
V-A-G: VL381 Boot (MICRO)
V-A-G: VL381 Boot (EEPROM)
V-A-G: DL501 Boot (MICRO)
VAG: DL501 Boot (EEPROM)
V-A-G: DL501G2 Boot (MICRO)
V-A-G: DL501G2 Boot (EEPROM)
DQ250E/F/MQB Boot (MICRO): success!
DQ250E/F/MQB Boot (EEPROM): success!
Q1: How to accomplish Piwis Tester II online function?
A1: Piwis Tester II online is via Team Viewer remote control, globally available.
Q2: How to handle with 90 days locking about Piwis Tester II?
A2: Porsche Piwis 2 timing is unlimited, always showing 90 days.
Q3: How much software update charges for per year?
A3: The first year software update fee is free.
Q4: How to update Piwis Tester II at Obd2tool.com?
A4: By CD or HDD. When you want update. you can contact with our customer service as well
Q5: If it is showing Porsche Logo when booting computer?
A5: Yes, CF-31R, CF30K are with Porsche Logo when booting computer.
Q6: License Validity?
A6: To support ONLINE function, valid certificate must be available for Piwis Tester II.
Q7: Where could get Laptop Power-on Password?
A7: Normally ours is piwis-3456, or piwis-4567. Or you can see the stickers on laptop. (Attached pic shows). If there is any problem, can contact customer service freely.
Here are all solutions aimed to help fix GM MDI Scanner multiple diagnostic interface connection/communication issues (connection by usb, wireless ethernet, wired ethernet)… big thanks to all contributors and obd2tool.com
For mdi not connecting…
First, you should make sure that the MDI Manager software should be installed on the PC and the MDI must be powered up before you use it to communicate.
Also the MDI should be configured for wired ethernet or wireless communication. If the USB is available, the MDI will connect by using the USB and if not, the MDI will connect by using wired ethernet and if neither of them is available, the MDI will connect by using wireless.
If the MDI can not communicate with the MDI, you should check the cables if they are securely attached to the MDI, if the MDI has completed its power up sequence, if the connector pins are clean and if the MDI Manager software is running.
In detail…. mdi connection can be discussed in the following 4 parts:
Part 1: GM MDI USB connection
Part 2: GM MDI connection by wireless ethernet
Part 3: GM MDI connection by wired ethernet
Part 4: Tech support: GM MDI not connecting
Part 1: GM MDI USB connection
And if you connect them by USB, you need to check the MDI USB connection is detected by windows. About the solutions, you can connect the MDI to the PC USB port and power up the MDI. Open the Network and Dial-up Connections Window from the Windows Control Panel. Then check for the device name ETAS USB Remote NDIS Network Device. If it is not running, check all USB ports on the PC and verify that the MDI is powered on.
GM MDI Manual: What if MDI fails to connect on USB
* Check USB cable connections.
* Check Firewall Settings on your PC.
* Verify a USB Hub is not being used (MDI has a fixed USB address).
* Verify that only one MDI is connected to your PC using USB.
* Verify the USB driver has been installed on the PC (look for device name ‘ETAS USB Remote
NDIS Network Device’ under Network Connections).
* Try connecting to other USB ports on the PC.
Part 2: GM MDI connection by wireless ethernet
If you connect them by wireless ethernet, you should make sure that wireless communication is enabled and the IP configuration is properly set using the MDI Manager software. Then what you need to check is that the USB cable is not plugged in, the MDI is not being used via wired ethernet and the wireless card is properly seated in the MDI. You can contact your IT department and check that your PC is detecting the wireless access point and the correct security settings have been configured for the MDI.
GM MDI Manual: What if MDI fails to connect on Wireless
* Check the wireless card is properly seated in the WiFi GM MDI.
* Confirm LEDs on the wireless card are lighted when the MDI is powered.
* Verify the MDI and PC are within range of the Access Point or Router.
* Verify that the PC is connected to the Access Point or Router.
* Verify signal strength of the wireless network from the PC.
* Check Firewall Settings on your PC
* USB connection takes precedence, unplug USB cable.
* Wired Ethernet connection takes precedence, unplug Ethernet cable.
* Connect to MDI using USB and run MDI Manager to verify the Wireless Settings are
o Wireless interface is enabled.
o AP settings configured for proper security (authentication, encryption).
o Signal Quality (fair, good, excellent) indicates connected to AP.
o The MDI, PC and AP are on the same subnet
o If using static IP, verify the IP Address and Subnet mask are correct (supplied by network
Part 3: GM MDI connection by wired ethernet
And if you connect then by wired ethernet, you need to ensure that the wired ethernet communication is enabled and configured using the MDI Manager software. Then you should check that the USB cable is not plugged in and the MDI device detects wired ethernet activity by viewing the lights blinking on the wired ethernet port of the MDI. And also you can contact your local IT department and check that the MDI and the PC are on the same subnet.
GM MDI Manual: What if Car Diagnostic Tool MDI fails to connect on Wired
* Check Ethernet cable connections.
* Check Firewall Settings on your PC.
* Verify the MDI and the PC are cabled into separate LAN connections on the same network.
* Verify that the PC is properly configured and can communicate on the network.
* USB connection takes precedence, unplug USB cable.
* Connect to MDI using USB and run MDI Manager to verify the Wired Ethernet Settings are
o Wired Ethernet interface is enabled.
o If using static IP, verify the IP Address and Subnet mask are correct (supplied by your
Part 4: GM MDI not connecting
This is professional technical support for the error ” not connected to MDI”.
All what you need do is to refresh the GM MDI firmware
* Press this button and connect the power:
* Keep press this button and connect it to power, the power light will be on, wait about 10 seconds:
* When all light is on, then you can release the button, and it will enter firmware refresh status:
* Connect GM MDI with your PC via USB cable, prepare to refresh the firmware:
* Open “GM MDI Manager”, choose “Recover”:
I thought I would start a new thread on the Chinese Mb Star C3 systems, since there doesn’t seem talk on this subject thus far.
Since you’re reading this thread then I’m guessing you were like me and are searching for information on these Chinese MB Star systems.
I’m sure you’ve found several web sites selling these things, prices ranging all over from $380 up to over $800 but unfortunately I there isn’t a damn thing about anyone actually purchasing one of these and verifying the sellers claim on whether they really work or if they really don’t require the original IBM ThinkPad to work properly.
Well, here ya go folks!
So after months of searching and doing research with not much luck I finally took the risk and bought one of the Chinese MB STAR C3 systems.
I was very hesitant in buying one of these Chinese devices. The total price with shipping turned out to be $450. There were several places on the internet with prices ranging all over. I only found one place that was a little less expensive than $450 total, I think maybe $430 but that guy was not very prompt in returning my emails. I finally ordered mine from vidaobd2.com. Michael Luo was the sales rep who immediately responded to my inquiry on the device and he immediately responded to all my emails and questions within a day at worst. He was very friendly and patient with me and his English surprisingly good.
The one they sell was claimed to work on most any laptop, not just the IBM ThinkPad was required to run the software. Which is what these systems were originally intended for.
It took me about three weeks to finally receive the device VIA DHL after I sent the payment. Mine took a little longer to receive because I placed the order right before Chinese new year, but Michael warned me that shipping will take an extra week because most of China was off for a week for Chinese new year.
When I finally received the unit I was very surprised on how heavy they box was. I guess this is why it was $50 just for the shipping.
When I opened the box I was very surprised and very impressed in the quality and the amount of contents. The multiplexer unit itself is a very heavy duty all aluminum enclosure with tough rubber end caps and real nice polished aluminum connector ends. It even came with the stickers to make it look like an original MB STAR system.
It came with several cables to make it work with most any car including the 32 pin round connector for those Euro models. All I really needed was the 16 pin cable that plugs into the CAN slot.
I was very impressed with the quality of all the cables. They all felt and looked very heavy duty and had heavy duty solid aluminum connectors. None of it looked cheap at all.
The kit came with a Samsung External USB 80 gig hard dive which had the MB STAR software loaded on it. Also included to my surprise was a PCMCI to serial card with driver software. I’m assuming that the STAR system will not run from a USB to serial box and since I told Michael which system I had, he knew that I did not have a serial port on my laptop so he included this for free.
All in all I was very impressed with what I received as far as quality and everything that was included for the $450.
Now on to the operation of the unit:
After doing a little research I learned that the software might not work on Windows 7.
I didn’t even bother trying since a buddy of mine gave me an old tablet with a serial port built in and already had XP loaded on it. So I just decided to use that since it was a touch screen and would probably be a little easier to use than my bulky 17” screen laptop.
I forgot to mention, you will need at least 1 gig of RAM to run this program, it will not even load with anything less than a gig. Luckily I had an extra 512 board lying around the office… Shhhh…lol
This is what I did first before I even started messing with the software:
Since this thing is already kind of bulky I really didn’t want to run it with an external hard drive attached so I figured out a way to include this image on my internal hard drive.
Since this image was about 63gig I needed a larger hard drive for my tablet. Luckily I had access to a 180gig laptop SATA drive from work since we sometimes through them out after we do testing on them. (Oh shut up, we through these things out! lol) I connected both drives to my desktop PC and went to work. You probably figured out by now that I did this all at work since who actually has a desktop at home anymore? I hope my boss doesn’t read this…lol The first thing I did was use Acronis and cloned the old tablet drive to the new 180gig drive so that I now had a large enough drive to add the STAR image to it. Next I used Partition Magic to add a logical partition of about 80gigs to the drive. Next I used a free program called Drive Image XML. I first made a backup image of the 80gig drive that came with the unit. I saved this to my secondary hard drive on my desktop PC (My own personal 1 Terabyte drive) just in case I needed the original image in the future. I then used the Drive Image software to restore the backed up image to the new 80gig logical partition I created on the new 180gig drive. When I first tried to put the new hard drive in the tablet it would not boot. It turned out that I needed to delete the drive letter from the main partition where my original XP image was. I recommend you do this before you install it back in the laptop since I had to take the drive back out, hook it up to my other PC again and delete it from there, then re-install the drive into the tablet.
BAM! This worked! I now have a hard drive with my original bootable image of XP with a separate logical drive letter with the image of the 80gig drive that came with the kit all on one hard dive so it’s easily assessable from the my computer I-con.
Now on to the software that came with this:
The image that came on the external hard drive, which is now on my internal drive is actually an image of an IBM ThinkPad that runs in a program called VMware. I was not familiar with this software but just went with it. There are some simple start up instructions included in a couple of power point slides. I followed those instructions but couldn’t get it to run. I was getting an error, which I apologies but I can’t remember exactly what it was, something about a compatibility issue. This made me very nervous that the software wasn’t going to run on my tablet. So I did a search for this error on the net and sure enough my good ole friends at Google had a web site with the answer for me. The site I found had my exact error message and simply said to delete some configuration file in the VMware folder. I’m guessing this is some kind of setup file that came loaded on the hard drive that was not correct for my tablet. So I first made a backup of this file, just in case, then deleted this file from the logical drive like it said to. I restarted the VMware program and Vola, it worked!
I now had VMware running with image of from an IBM ThinkPad that was preloaded with a several different programs on its desktop that I have never heard of. One of these programs was Xentry another was DAS as well as a few others. I included a snap shot of the screen so you can see all what it came with.
I first clicked on the Xentry I-con, but it would not load. I then tried the DAS I-con and waited. This is the frustrating part, this software runs VERY slow and took nearly 8-10 minutes to completely load. Maybe my computer is just very slow or maybe I need more memory, I don’t know but eventually it was up and running.
Hooking it up to the car:
Once the software finally loaded I connected the 16 pin cable to my CAN port under my dash, and the serial connector to my tablet PC then turned on the ignition of the car. I followed the menus and chose the type of car, etc. Unfortunately it would not auto detect my car. I don’t know if this was just my car or if it’s a bug in the software/hardware. My car had a lot of electrical and computer issues that the mechanic told me about, which is why I decided to buy this thing since I already spent $5k for him to fix most of the problems. So it could have just been a problem with my car not allowing it to auto detect, I couldn’t tell you.
This really wasn’t a big deal. The software simply took me through a few questions to manually select my exact vehicle model.
After a couple of minutes I was finally connected to the cars computer systems. The main menu had a few different choices, but I found the “Start quick scan” was the best option. Unfortunately there is nothing quick about this. The whole scan took a good 10-15 minutes to complete. I started having low voltage problems from the car since I had to have the ignition on and the door open during this whole process. This actually cased more false codes and problems so I recommend that you start the car and let it idle during this whole process. You could probably hook up a battery charger, I didn’t try that but will next time since the engine started getting kind of hot idling there for a good 40 or so minutes while I was doing all this.
Once it was finally done it came up with a long list everything in the car. At the end of each line it had a status of either an “f” or an “i” or and “E” or a check mark.
I was not familiar with software at all, so I played around with it a bit and tried hitting the green checkmark button on the ones that had an ‘f” this did in fact bring up another screen that allowed you to view the fault codes and erase them if you wanted to.
There is also an option on the main screen to erase all codes. It doesn’t tell you that it’s all codes but I’m pretty sure it is. Unfortunately it only clears most of them and you may still have to go into each one manually and clear them or check them to see if they’re current or just stored.
After playing with this software a little more I found that there are actually some trouble shooting steps assigned to each fault codes. I’m sure this makes it much easier for a Mercedes tech. If you select the fault code then hit the green checkmark this should take you to the trouble shooter. I think you may have to hit the magnify glass button at some point, I can’t really remember.
There is going to be a learning curve here and you’ll soon find out that if you back to far out of certain screens you have to re-scan or after you leave the main screen you loose the option of clearing all the codes without a re-scan. It can be a little frustrating at first, but after a while of playing with the software and after several beers while waiting it started to come into play.
So I starting checking out some of my reoccurring fault codes, but wasn’t sure what was real or just logged from an old occurrence so I deleted all the codes, then did a re-read again. A couple of the codes kept coming back as “f” but I expected this. I’m having an SRS problem that I’m trying to trouble shoot. When I finally got into the SRS code that kept reoccurring I learned that the software is in real time. Meaning that you can actually see the screen change if you fix the fault or re-cause it. Very cool!
So this is about as far as I got with the DAS software.
Right now I have 4 codes relating to my SRS system that I’m trying to clear up so I can get rid of the pesky SRS light and finally get the SRS system fixed.
The DAS software gave me a component number and a code which I am now trying to trouble shoot. This is where the other software comes into play. Keep reading…
The StarFinder software:
This software is ultra cool!! Again there was a bit of a learning curve but it didn’t take me too long to figure it out enough to find what I was looking for.
With this software I was able to type in the fault code that the DAS gave me and it popped up a schematic with the circuit of the part. You can then click on the diagnostic button to find out what it is and how to test it. Here is the really cool part!… When you click on the Star Finder button it brings up a list of all the fault codes or you can do a search and type yours in. Once you click on your fault code it brings up a series of actual pictures of the car of where the device is located and how to get to it. That was just too cool!! The star finder software makes it worth the money alone! Although, I guess it wouldn’t do you any good unless you had the error code from the DAS system. Lol So the two programs complement each other very well.
I think the other programs have something to do with warranty information and data entry by the tech while he’s working on the car. Which really makes me think this is an actual image of a complete hard drive from a service shop that seems to be cracked. Hey, at least it works!
So in conclusion the Chinese system I ordered for $450 was a great deal and works great! The car I used it on was a 2006 SL500. I also tried it on a 2001 SLK320 and had success with that as well. The VMware image thing was kind of odd but seemed to work just fine. My only complaint was that it was very slow. The system might run faster and better on an actual IBM ThinkPad but for what I’m doing, this setup works just fine. Just have a 6 pack of beer handy because you’re going to be doing a lot of waiting on the system to boot and load.
I hope this helps anyone who is thinking about buying one of these. I got mine for a total of $450 shipping included from vidaobd2.com. I have done a lot of research and I highly recommend buying from these guys. I think it’s worth the extra $10-$20 over the cheaper site that I found. I promise I am in NO way affiliated with these guys what so ever. I am just a truly satisfied customer.
I recommend you emailing them first and telling them what computer you plan on using it on and what operating system and whether you have a serial port or not, etc. I’m not sure if it works on windows 7 or not. Also make sure you have at least a gig of RAM on the system you’re planning on running it on. It will not load with anything less.
Here are some screen shots from the software. I apologies but I didn’t get any photos of the unit or cables but you’ll just have to trust me when I say that everything looked even better than the photos they advertise on their site. Everything looked like really heavy duty good stuff. Nothing looked cheap at all!